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Recently, when I was shopping at my local Stop & Shop, I couldn’t believe my ears …
I heard an ad from Coquito playing on the intercom. I looked around and was as surprised as anyone else to see that this basic Puerto Rican holiday product was being marketed to the everyday buyer at this Queens supermarket. Could it be that the drink is in vogue? How? For me, it seems like the best kept secret, but I was glad that the Puerto Ricans were discovering what they weren’t.
If you’ve never had a coquito, I like to describe it as a tropical egg. (Except Coquito tastes really good. Sorry, egg lovers!) The secret to the best taste is the egg yolk-shaped fat. Like traditional recipes The taste of Puerto Rico Yvonne Ortiz (an essential bible of Puerto Rican cuisine) collects raw egg yolks; however, I like to add a lump of sugar with the egg yolks in the indirect heat to give Coquito an almost nutty texture and remove any bacteria.
When I was growing up in Bushwick (Brooklyn), I remember that Coquito was served at every Christmas and New Year party to open presents and play games, with adults dancing and mixing with the music of Héctor Lavoe and Celia Cruz. The children were offered lots of virginity while the adults drank white rum.
Every year, just a few days before Christmas, my mother and I make lots of Coquito gifts for our family and friends. She breaks my eggs and saves me the yolks while she looks after the cans of milk piled up on the ceiling. They constantly ask us for recipes – I think that’s not because it’s just too sweet, rich and sweet, and most importantly, spiced with perfection. Good luck, here you go.
Coquito
As mentioned above, the virgin version is also delicious. If you follow this path, replace the rum with an extra cup of coconut milk, for a total of two coconut milk. (Coquito is “little coconut” in Spanish.)
It gives 5 servings
1 cup canned whole fat coconut milk
½ sweetened condensed milk
1 cup evaporated milk
1 cup white rum (optional, see note above)
3 cinnamon sticks
4 large egg yolks
½ Cup granulated sugar + 2 tablespoons
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 tablespoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt
½ teaspoon chopped ginger
1 tablespoon ground cinnamon (optional)
Pour coconut milk, sweetened condensed milk, evaporated milk and white rum (if used) into a blender. Coconut milk may appear curdled, but that’s perfectly normal. Stir in the milk mixture for 30 seconds on low. The mixture should be smooth and slightly foamy. Pour into a large bowl, cover freely and place in the refrigerator.
In a small saucepan, boil a glass of water with cinnamon sticks. When the water boils, turn it off immediately and let it cool until it touches.
In a separate large saucepan, add water to the top of the two-inch side and set on fire. Combine the egg yolks, ½ cup granulated sugar and 2 tablespoons in a medium bowl of heat-resistant water. Place the bowl on a saucepan and reduce the heat to low, so that the water is on the fire. Using an electric mixer (or a large blender and a strong arm), beat the eggs in a medium-high mix until the volume has tripled to a very pale yellow and recorded at 150F-155F for 7 to 10 minutes. Carefully remove the container from the heat.
Beat the egg mixture into the bowl with the slightly chilled milk mixture. The mixture should be egg-colored. Put it back in the fridge.
When the cinnamon stick cools, add the vanilla, kosher salt and ginger to the milk mixture. Stir well. Add the Coquito to a large jug and refrigerate for at least 4-6 hours.
Serve once completely chilled, or bottled and given to family and friends.
Thank you, Bianca!
Bianca Cruz is Clarkson Potter’s editorial assistant. He graduated from Hunter College in New York with a degree in English Arts from Germany. After an internship at Oxford University Press, Bianca attended the Columbia Publishing Course and now attends the Institute of Culinary Education and is currently pursuing a degree in Culinary Arts.
PS Test test non-alcoholic beer, and holiday cookie displays.
(Photos Yossy Arefi Go for the cup.)
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